It happens because every Class D (digital) amplifier has a power supply with high-frequency switching that can interfere with the long-range FM signals. To solve the interference, make sure to give preference to local radio stations, as they have stronger signals.
Another option would be to install the digital amplifier separately from the original vehicle’s wiring, with the powering cables (positive and negative) pulled directly from the battery, and with a well-shielded RCA (short as possible), to avoid both resulting in a kind of antenna.
The noise that interferes with the FM signal is usually present on all class D amplifiers, regardless of the manufacturer. The high-frequency switching from the amplifier’s power supply varies, depending on the model, and contributes to the development of more efficient amplifiers with lower consumption and higher power.
Here is what you can do to reduce even more this kind of interference:
– Eliminate the contact between the amplifier and the vehicle chassis;
– Lock the powering cables and pull them directly from the battery to the low power amplifier (this favors the FM signal);
– Verify the best position to connect the audio inside the vehicle and, if it’s RCA, prefer the shortest cable you can get with a high-quality shielding;
– Use the high-performance CD Player and antennas. This eliminates the possibilities of interference over FM signals;
– Braiding the output wires to the speakers, aiming to cancel high-frequencies, can also help.
For the audio system project, it’s recommended to use the Maximum Musical Consumption as a parameter, since it indicates the minimum amperage necessary to obtain the maximum performance and efficiency when playing a song. The Maximum Sinusoidal Consumption is considered as a parameter when the amplifier goes to a resistance test with an output charge that has no variation when under high temperatures, plus a fixed frequency signal.
When operating on impedances higher than the minimum required by the amplifier, about 40% of the power is lost without damaging the product functions. Therefore, don’t let the amplifier operate below the minimum required impedance.
The Taramps amplifiers have an active protection system that runs against impedances lower than the minimum. If the amplifier is forced to operate on that range, the product may face overheating conditions and unrepairable issues.
It works. However, as half of the required amperage is offered, half of the power will be obtained. Also, this may compromise the stability and autonomy of the sound system.
VDC stands for Volts Direct Current. The values presented indicate that the amplifier should operate between two voltages, 10 VDC and 15 VDC, to reach the perfect functioning.
It’s important to note that the right operating voltage is 12.6V, which is the power of most amplifiers. Also, when operating on a voltage closer to 12.6V, the performance will be better.
A project of a car audio system is very complex, particularly when it comes to the significant amount of variables that can interfere. In other words, to obtain the maximum performance of an audio system, we recommend that you analyze three power factors:
1st – Amplifier: when using an HD5000 amplifier at 2-ohm, it’s possible to obtain 5,000 watts RMS with 260A battery-wise, and speakers that average 3,000 watts RMS.
To reach an excellent result using an amplifier like the HD5000, the speakers must have half of the amplifier power and the battery used needs to be of 260A, which is the minimum required to obtain 5,000 watts RMS from the amplifier.
2nd – Loudspeakers: a sound system with two 1,500 watts RMS speakers can offer from 3,000 to 6,000 watts RMS when it comes to non-distorted music, using an HD5000 and 260A batteries.
3rd – Batteries: For a car sound project consisted of a 140A battery, it’s possible to maintain an amplifier like the HD2500 plus four 400 watts RMS loudspeakers, contributing to an amazing final result.
Note: The battery amperage always needs to be equal or higher than the maximum consumption of the amplifier used.
Passive Frequency Divider: it doesn’t require energy to operate and the installation is usually between the amplifiers and the loudspeakers. The development of this kind of divider is made of capacitors and inductors (coils). The most common method to use in sound systems is the passive filters, with attenuation at -6dB/octave or -12dB/octave, due to its easiness. Passive filters at -6dB/octave are mainly common in drivers and super tweeters, in which the filter stands for one capacitor serially connected to the positive pole of the driver or tweeter.
Active Frequency Divider: it requires energy to operate. It’s always after the signal source (CD, DVD, MP3, etc.), but before the amplifier. The active dividers allow a more extended exploration, considering that some models allow cut points variations (the frequency points that start the operation). The advantage is that it doesn’t result in losses since the cut performs before the amplifier. In other words, there is not a component that divides the output voltage. It’s different from the Passive, which contains losses. The capacitor and inductor have reactances and, as they’re used after the amplifier output and before the loudspeaker, they proceed to divide the amplifier output voltage between the capacitor, inductor, and loudspeaker.
The amplifier can be powered directly by the power supply as long as it feeds enough power to the amplifier.
Examples:
To power an amplifier with a musical consumption of 70 amps, it is ideal to use a power supply of at least 70A. In this case, we suggest the Smart Charger 70A/90A.
To power an amplifier that has a musical consumption of 100 amps, a power supply of at least 100A is suggested, such as the Smart Charger 120A.
When we think about amplifiers to play music, we can do a simple calculation, varying for more or less, depending on the amplifier, with a musical consumption within an average that reaches excellent results. For example, an audio system with a 3,000 watts RMS amplifier, divided by 20, we’ll have 135 as a result. This number represents the number of amperes. A 5,000 watts RMS amplifier, divided by 20, will need 250A.
This would be a simple way to calculate the consumption within a musical average. Another great way to identify the number of batteries your system needs is looking in the product manual.
First of all, it’s necessary to know the amplifier’s musical consumption. This way, the fuse or circuit breaker must have a value that equals approximately 10% higher than the musical consumption or the value stated in the manual.
The difference between a MONO and STEREO amplifier is the number of channels they have. The Mono has a single channel, while the Stereo has two or more channels.
To identify the best amplifier to your sub-bass, or even to your voice (treble ranges), you need to know the frequency response of the amplifier. This way, a mono amplifier with a frequency response ranging from 20Hz to 20kHz will be fittable to sub-bass, bass, mid-bass, mid, mid-treble and treble. Here are some frequency responses:
– SUBWOOFER: Usually, the operating response within an acoustic box ranges from 20Hz to 100Hz.
– WOOFER: Frequency response ranging from 60Hz to 3,000Hz, depending on the size, power, efficiency, and manufacturer.
– MID RANGE: Frequency response usually ranging from 100Hz to 5,000Hz, depending on the manufacturer.
– PHENOLIC DRIVER: Frequency response ranging from 600Hz to 12,000Hz, depending on the model and manufacturer.
– TITANIUM DRIVER: Frequency response ranging from 1,000Hz to 20,000Hz, depending on the model and manufacturer.
– SUPER TWEETER: Frequency response ranging from 5,000Hz to 20,000Hz, depending on the model and manufacturer.
With these references, we’ll be able to know if the amplifier can or can not a specific product.